Bonjour!
Hello from sunny South France! I have been here over a month now, enough time to experience spring transition to summer. It has been hard to sit down and write which I love, because days are filled with seeking something for the mas, getting into the everyday rhythm of this life, meeting new and old friends, and exploring new adventures.
Life slows down from what I am use to, which is not necessarily a bad thing. Businesses close, errands are halted, as everyone takes a two hour lunch break. A long pause midday, also means that businesses are open longer into the evening and generally dinner starts later in the evening too.
A month ago, spring thunderstorms and heavy rains were happening and now have disappeared into hot, sunny days approaching 90 plus degrees F. Temperatures are about 14 degrees higher now than the average.
Green and white asparagus which were so abundant in the markets earlier, are nowhere to be found. It is true, when the season is over, it is over until next year. Yes, asparagus, artichoke, and cherry season are gone but luckily replaced with the equally incredible season of luscious stone fruits of apricots, nectarines, and peaches. And not to forget squash and haricot verts. No one complains, everyone knows. The seasons are short, yet to be embraced and celebrated until their glorious time comes around next year.
It is very much a rural and agricultural area here. Vineyards are abundant in carefully tended neat rows. You often see people bent over in fields, and wondering what they are tending too. Tractors large and small can impede normally impatient fast-driving cars.
Wednesday Uzés Market at Place aux Herbes
Incredibly, John and I have had our little mas for three years now. The real estate listing said the mas was built in 1850. We have since learned that is a “blanket date” for certain homes, and our mas actually dates back to the late 1700’s, evidence by its ceilings and architectural nuances. That makes sense as we live in the older part of a village, and the mairie (town hall) down the street dates back to the 18th century too.
Our Mas Kitchen Ceiling
Our Village Mairie Amongst Open Fields And Poppies
Our mas was certainly updated and modernized, but it lacked the warmth and charm this little mas deserved. Three years later, we have just about completed our long list of desires. In fact, this trip, I listed 28 things , big and small, we did or found for the mas. Little changes that make a huge difference.
Most of the decorating is finished. Most “wants” have miraculously be found. With that said, I have enjoyed frequenting brocantes, flea markets, and vide greniers (local village sales) for items and pieces that fit in nicely and complement the period of the mas. I always have “edit” on my mind, as here in France especially, “less is more.”
I found on this trip an oil painting on canvas at one of my favorite flea markets. I love the content and colors so much. Much of my mas decoration is earth tone colors, and the blue flowers and copper pot pop the room. Besides, who can resist “Provence Blue.” You can find these wonderful paintings frequently at the flea markets and for very reasonable prices. Need I mention, that art is a very integral part of French life, as they excel in the “art of living.”
Blue Flowers In A Copper Pot, A Flea Market Treasure
This time of year, there are a lot of fêtes, events, and happenings in the villages. Most are very local, and even word of mouth, as they are small, yet well attended. This year friends invited us to their small village, Sauve, where there is an annual Fête des Violons. A three day celebration that attracts violinists of all ages and ability to play together. The kickoff of this celebration is a mass of violinists playing together and parading through the village in a “pied piper” fashion. People are encouraged to follow and dance among the violinists, with surprise vignettes playing from a balcony or in a garden. This annual event was started to honor the traditional village life and folk music of the past, and remind new generations of both.
Fête des Violons at Sauve
John and I have made it a point to do a few short trips, two days and one night within easy driving distance of our home base. In Europe, distances are quite deceiving, taking much longer, and sometimes much slower.
On our first getaway, we went down to Sète, a beautiful port town on the Mediterranean. It is often called “The Venice of the Languedoc.” It borders the Étang de Thau, which is a saltwater lagoon known for raising delicious oysters. The oysters, mussels, and seafood are amazing. We stayed in a beautiful little Belle Epoque hotel, Le Grand Hotel, located right on the Canal Royale. The lobby and three floors open to an incredible glass atrium. It was tastefully decorated with wonderful antiques that all tugged at my heart.
A week later we went into Provence and revisited many of the villages we had traveled to nearly 20 years ago. We specifically stayed at the Le Saint Hubert in St. Saturin-les-Apts, and dined in their stunning terrace restaurant overlooking the Luberon. Le Saint Hubert was established in 1852, and has had many lives. Six years ago a young vibrant husband and wife, followed their dream and have slowly renovated the hotel, its six rooms, posh restaurant and cafe. Their food is amazing and captures the best of Provence flavors.
Melon Cucumber Gazpacho With Goat Cheese And Market Vegetables at Le Saint Hubert
Our last trip was to Lyon, the second largest city in France situated on the Rhône and Saône rivers. Lyon was a surprise. Quite a vibrant city where the late famed Chef Paul Bocuse made his name. We stopped in at the citiy’s food hall named after him for a sampling of many of Lyon’s specialites. We had a great dinner at La Meunière, a traditional Bouchon Lyonnais since 1921, and the next day a great lunch at Saône whose chef treats you to a modern twist on Lyonnais cuisine. We did a lot of walking in Vieux Lyon, a saved neighborhood district that dates back to the Renaissance, and climbed up high to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière overlooking amazing Lyon, and not to forget the Fourvière Roman Theatres.
Overlooking Lyon From The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière
I hope you have enjoyed a little snippet of our life in France. We have done and experienced so much in such a short time, I can’t share it all. This is great, because it opens the door for more sharing, tips, and inspiration for future writing about why I am so passionate about “A Taste of French Country Living” through the garden, kitchen, and home.
Thank you for following along. À bientôt…Bonnie
