Little Village, Big Celebration
Fête de la Musique is a celebration of music started in France, but now observed worldwide. It usually happens on the summer solstice, the longest day of the year. On this day, everyone is encouraged to play music outside, in their neighborhoods, in parks, in public places. In France, you can observe it in large cities, as well as trickling down to small villages. Sometimes it is a live band, sometimes a DJ, and sometimes even karaoke. The message is to celebrate the joy of music with everyone. It is always free.
We stumbled upon the little village of Gaujac’s Fête de la Musique, not far from Uzés, quite by chance. Gaujac in the Occitane region, is a small winemaking village of about 1,000 residents, surrounded by vineyards producing Côte du Rhône wines.
Approaching the the village, there were no signs for the fête, and when I inquired at the wine cooperative on the outskirts of the village, I was told they know there was a fête today, but didn’t know where or when it started. So we headed towards the center of the village. No signs, no publicity, this fête must be a long standing tradition that locals know about. We did manage to find the fête whereabouts.
In late morning, there was confirmation of a running of the bulls with French cowboys and cowgirls mounted on magnificent Camargue white horses down a sectioned street with protected bars. Spectactors, usually male adolescents, were allowed to run after the bulls, pulling their tails, trying to touch them. I was aghast. Each running of the bulls went very fast, about 25 seconds. It was very exciting and very hot that day. There was an ambulance strategically parked close by, in case of an emergency.
Next to the sectioned street was the main shady plaza of the village. Tables and benches were set up for the lunch crowd. Two very friendly ladies in pink were busy making paella for 250 people starting at 1:00pm. Each pan served 100 people. For 15 euros one could get a plate of delicious paella, your choice of a beer or glass of wine, and dessert of tarte tatin.
When the paella was ready to be served, the lunch tickets had been purchased, everyone got their lunch plates and sat down to enjoy. There were people of all ages, sitting together, eating and enjoying the day. I imagined most of them were from Gaujac. It was nice to see.
The Fête de la Musique wouldn’t be a fête without music. A lively village brass band dressed in orange and lemon shirts was there to entertain us and put a smile on everyone’s face. Some spectators joined in the singing.
A large stage was set up at the far end of the plaza. A big music group would be playing later that evening. We decided to look for another Fête de la Musique in another location for later that evening. It had been a very entertaining, delicious, and delightful day.
When I think back on this memorable day, I think of the phrase “French Country Living.” I also think of key words that describe the essence of this day and “French Country Living:” fun, adventure, surprises, simplicity, seasons, delicious, beauty, visual, senses, drama, tradition, and joy of life.
Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie